I sincerely hope your puppy is at least 3 months old. Yorkies are too young to 
leave home until that age. Between birth and 3 months is when most health problems
will show up in Yorkies.
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If you have a responsible breeder that you bought your puppy from, she or he will be in 
your lives for a long time. They will teach you everything you need to know on shots, health,
feeding, signs to watch out for, bedding, toys (good and bad), bowel movements, hypo-
glycemia, etc. etc. etc... You will also have their phone number and will be able to 
call them day or night if you have a problem.
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BUT.... Maybe you didn't buy your puppy from a good breeder. Or, maybe you would 
like to be a good breeder yourself and are just starting out, but don't really know all 
that much about raising puppies. This is why I am adding this article to my web site. Al-
though I raise and show Yorkies, this can apply to most small breeds.
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The first thing you should do, if you know the day you are getting your puppy, is to make
an appointment with your Vet. Preferably the same day.
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It is too easy to become attached to a pup and if there is something wrong with it, it will be a 
lot easier on you, if you have to take it back. If you absolutely can't, than make one as soon 
as possible.
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Better yet, ask the breeder if the puppy has been taken to a Vet for a checkup, the date, 
and the Vet's name before you go see the puppy. Then you can call that Vet and get 
his advice on the health of the puppy before you see it and fall in love. This saves a lot of 
heartbreak.
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The most important thing to know about in raising puppies or acquiring a new puppy is 
"Hypoglycemia". Click and read this article.
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I think this is the most important subject in this whole article. It is very traumatic for a 
puppy to be taken away from its mother and go to a strange home with strange people in it. 
The puppy is very confused, lost and frightened.

New puppies should not be taken out with you and shown off to all your friends for at 
least a week or two. He needs to get to know and trust his new Mommy or Daddy and not 
be upset by strangers wanting to hold or play with him.
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When a puppy gets nervous or upset his sugar level drops drastically, and can cause 
the puppy to go into shock (they fall over and become rigid).  It can also cause death in 
extreme cases.

Hypoglycemia can also occur when a puppy is badly frightened, is hurt in some way, or is 
not eating enough.
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The best way to tell a puppy's sugar level is by his gums.  If the gums are nice and pink, 
he is fine. If the gums are white, his sugar level has dropped.
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You should check your puppy's gums often the first week he is in his new home.  Check 
them before he leaves his old home so you will be able to know if his level has dropped 
on entering his new home.
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What to do if his sugar drops? That's easy.  Give him sugar. Karo syrup is my constant 
companion with my pups and I usually give them a dose (about 2 cc's) before they leave 
my home to go to their new one. I also give it to my older dogs when they play too rough or 
go to the shows and get stressed out.
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Also "Nutra Cal" (comes in a tube and can be gotten from your Vet.) is a food supplement 
that is very rich. You just put a little on your finger and the puppy will usually lick it off.  If 
he doesn't, just open his mouth and put some behind his front teeth. This will also help 
bring his sugar up. I give both. First the Karo then the Nutra Cal.
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Karo is also excellent for getting a new born puppy to start nursing.  Mix a little with
warm water and let the puppy suck it off your (clean) finger or put some in a dropper 
and give just a drop or two.
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You should get a record of your puppy's shots. I usually don't sell mine until they 
have at least 2 shots in them. One at 6 weeks and the 2nd at 9 weeks.  They don't leave 
their mom till they're 3 months old though.
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They need a total of 3 at three week intervals and than 1 at a year old, and 1 every year 
after. My older dogs that go to the shows get them every 9 months as a precaution. They 
are around so many dogs that may or may not have germs that I feel it's better to be safe
than sorry.  I would suggest that, if you take your pup out a lot to parks or places that 
other dogs have roamed, to give their yearly shot a little early.
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I give everything but Leptosperosis, and Rabies.  It is now believed that giving Lepto 
too early can cause cataracts earlier when they get older.  I don't give Lepto until they 
are 6 months.  Rabies I don't give until much later, about 9 months.

Update on shots....
New studies have come out that say a dog doesn't need the adult shots but once every
3 years.  If in doubt that your dog is protected, you can have your vet do a titter
test to check. I am now following this new regime.  This is YOUR puppy that YOU are 
responsible for and you should do what you feel comfortable with or your vet 
recommends. 
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This part is for those who either give their own shots or want to give their own shots.
Remember this is just what "I" do. That doesn't mean you have to take it as gospel. 
And by all means follow your Vet's instructions over mine.
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What "I" do is divide the first shot into 2 shots. I give half a dose the first shot and a 
week later I give another half shot.  Two weeks later on the second shot I give the 
whole shot.  Our dogs are small and I just figure that if you give a big dog a whole shot, 
and our pups are half their size, that they don't need the whole thing at one time and 
it's safer.  I think it's just too much for their small systems.  I like for their bodies to 
adjust to a smaller amount first.
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I never use the same bottle twice.  If I only have one puppy, after I use the half shot I 
throw the bottle away and use a new one for the second half shot and throw that away as
well. If I have 2 pups than I divide one shot in two and use the same bottle but 2 different
needles.
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I once had a beautiful, perfect, Vet. checked puppy that I gave the whole shot to and it got
distemper and died. I say from the shot and my Vet. said that this was probably the case. 
All my dogs are vaccinated and the puppy had not been out of my home. The day it got 
the shot, it was fine. Two days later it had it's first seizure.
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My next litter I let my Vet give my puppies their shots. She checked them over 
thoroughly and then gave them their shots. I had one small male that got ill the day after 
his shot and was left with partial sight.  She used the same vaccine.
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I will not mention the name of the shot, but I will tell you that I am now using Pro guard 
(tm 5 Parvo Strain 154) (#16-P2-12) from Jeffers Pet Catalog (phone # 1-800-jeffers) 
for my pups.  I think you should know that it is important to keep up with which shot is 
rated best at the time you are giving shots.  You can call your Veterinarian University in 
your area for this information.  My puppy contracts have all this information in it.
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Now let's turn to a lighter subject.  Where does a puppy sleep when you get it home. 
Puppies are lost in a large area.  They need a small space that they can feel safe in 
without fear of getting stepped on or tripped over.  Ever try to get a puppy out from 
under a sofa or a bed?  It's no fun.
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I suggest to the people who buy my puppies to get a  small cage or playpen.  A cage is 
really the ideal place for a puppy and you can use it forever as a safe place for your 
puppy when you can't watch it.  They can get into trouble faster than a speeding bullet.

Be sure to get the one that opens at the top and side. Also, you need the grate and stainless
pan. Do not get the metal pan. They rust after a while. It folds down so it can be taken on trips to 
be used in motels. 

Playpens you can pick up real cheap from a garage sale, thrift or good-will store.  You can 
get the smaller ones now too if you don't have a lot of space. I get them from $12 to $16 dollars.
This is only if you don't have a climber. Some Yorkies may climb out of a playpen so 
I suggest you watch your puppy closely to make sure he isn't a climber first.  You may 
want to put it in a corner with pillows all around just in case.  I've never had one that 
climbed, but someone told me that theirs did. 
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In it, put the puppy's bed, food, water and paper in a corner to pee on.  I like the half
doughnut beds with one side open so they can cuddle up yet still crawl out of easily.
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You can put their toys in there also.  I go to thrift stores a lot and you can buy a bag of 
soft toys for about $1.50.  I wash them and remove all the eyes and anything that they 
can chew off and maybe choke on or swallow. I don't give them the furry kind (that comes 
off in their mouths and they can get in their stomachs), only the material or lambs wool 
ones.  Usually I can find one with a wind up music box in it.  They like the music, it's 
soothing.  When they get to the stage that they chew them up, I go to the harder toys. 
The minute any toy looks like it's coming apart, throw it away.
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We all lead busy lives today and have to go out at some time or other or we are just busy 
at home and want to know that our puppy is safe while we are not able to keep an eye on 
him.  I can't think of anything better than a playpen or, better yet, a small cage.
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Please note, I'm not advocating you lock him up forever.  Only when you can't watch him.

It's also great for training your puppy to the paper.  If you take him out regularly he won't 
even mess his paper after a while.
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Puppies are naturally curious. They will pick up anything off the floor and usually eat it or 
make a good job of trying to.  I knew a girl who bought a "cheep" puppy from an in-
different breeder who just sold her the puppy and said "so long".  She let her puppy loose 
all over the house and it found a pin on the floor and ate it.  After a day or so the puppy 
started bleeding from the rectum.  By the time she got it to the Vet. and he took x-rays and 
found the pin in its' stomach it was too late and the puppy died.

Never put a puppy on any furniture such as sofa's, chairs, or anything that's higher than 
he is if he's not in your arms or in your lap.  Contrary to "their" beliefs, they don't 
bounce when they hit the floor... they crash.  Broken bones are no fun to have to deal with
and Lord forbid.... what if he breaks his neck?

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I know some people don't believe in cages or confining their pets in any way. Too bad.  I 
most certainly do.  Better caged than dead.  Later, when the puppy is older, you can start
leaving him out more and more as you get to know your puppy better and can trust him 
without keeping your eye on him every second.  The reason I like the cage better than the playpen 
is also because you can leave the side door open,  put his bed in there and he'll go in and out for 
food, water and to sleep. They love their own special place.
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Watch your puppies' stool.  It can tell you a lot about what's going on inside your pup.  If 
it's nice and firm and a good brown, it's OK.  Make sure he goes every day and doesn't have 
to strain to do it.  Also make sure to keep the hair clipped around his rectum and check 
him often to make sure he isn't stopped up.  Anything else, see your Vet.
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Also watch your puppies' behavior.  New pups sleep a lot and that's normal, but if he 
seems sluggish when he's awake and just not himself, take his temperature. I use the
thermometer that beeps when done with a little KY jelly on it.  A pups' temp. should be 101 
degrees.  Sometimes while playing or in the heat it can go to 102.  If it doesn't come down 
when he quieten's down and cools off, call your Vet.
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I believe in feeding only good quality food. I'm not going to recommend one because I 
use them all.  For my older dogs I mix different brands so they don't get board.  I know I 
wouldn't like to eat the same thing every day of the year.  I have a 50 gallon metal garbage 
can that I line with a garbage bag and just mix everything together.  One bite one kind, 
next bite another kind.
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They are so funny though.  One day they will pick out just one kind and the next another 
kind and the next three different kinds.  Any way they have their choice.  My dogs are used 
to this and it doesn't upset them.
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For a puppy under 3 months old.....  I've gotten so many e-mails from people asking
what to feed their 6 week to 3 month old puppy that I'm adding this.  First, you shouldn't
buy a puppy under 3 months, but if you did,  this is what I would recommend you feed it.
Read my "Buying a  puppy article".
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When I wean my pups I use Hill's Growth food.  It comes in a green and white can and you
can get it from your vet. or Petsmart store.  I use half a can and put it in a bowl.  I mix in 
about 1/2 cup of canned milk and then mash it up real good.  Then I add water until it's a 
real soft mush.  I feed them this mixture until they are 3 months old 5 times a day. 
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As they grow, you can make the food more solid and not quite so mushy.  Keep this
in your refrigerator and no longer than 3 days.  The other half a can you didn't use, give to
another pet or throw out.  Heat the mush a little before you feed it to your puppy.  They're
used to warm milk from their mom and this will help them eat better. 

When they're 2 to 3 months old, I give them Eukanauba growth small bites.  This is hard
food.  This I leave down for them to munch on all the time.  At first they play with it, but
after a while they start eating it.  You have to watch them to see how much they're 
eating of the Eukanauba. You can get this at feed stores or your vets. 
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They will gradually stop eating the mush and eat more of the hard food.  When they
do this, I then start giving them the Hills growth right out of the can 3 times a day 
and still leave the Eukanauba down for them. 
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For a puppy over 3 months...
When you buy your puppy, you should find out what the breeder is feeding and make
sure you have some to take home with you until you can get to the store and get some.
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If you like the brand just keep using it.  If  you don't like it change the food gradually. 
I don't recommend you do this the first week as the puppy has enough to deal with just 
going to a new home.  The less stress the better.
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By the next week when he's more used to you, start changing.  Just add a little bit of the food 
you want him to eat at first. Make sure he likes it.  If it's dry, offer him a piece and see if he 
will eat it.  If he does then go ahead with changing gradually.  A little more each day 
of the food you like and a little less of the original food.  I would do this over a weeks 
time.  If he doesn't like it at first just put a few pieces in a bowl and leave it there. 
Maybe he will decide later that it's not so bad.
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When the pieces are gone add a few more.  Just keep going like this till he gets used to it. 
If he plain doesn't like it and won't eat it, then it's up to you to find another good brand you 
like and start the process all over again.
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Always remember that the main thing is to keep him eating no matter what the food.  I 
have a friend whose puppy wouldn't eat anything but Gerber weenies.  He's 4 years 
old and still eats them for snacks and such.  Maybe a little weenie juice on your food 
might do the trick.  If he plain won't eat anything, go ahead and give him the weenies. 
So what if you have a spoiled, rotten dog. He'll get that way sooner or later anyway.
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Even after they start eating dry food, I still give my puppies wet food twice a day.  After 
6 or 7 mo. I then go to once a day.  I like to put a little cottage cheese in their wet food. 
It's good for them and they love it.
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Another thing I believe in is obedience training for your puppy starting at 3 months 
of age.  I don't mean the full training like for obedience trials or attack training.  I just 
mean a couple of simple commands to keep your puppy safe.
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What if you answer your door and your pup runs out of the house and into the street? 
And of course a car is coming at the same time.  Wouldn't you like to know you could 
give your pup a command and he would stop immediately and come trotting back to you?

The best way to train him is to find an obedience club in your area. You would 
get to know a lot of nice people and have some support in your training efforts.
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If none are available, I will give you some simple ways to do it yourself.  I trained and 
showed German Shepherds in obedience for many years, so I'm not a novice at this.  The 
first thing you do is leash train your pup to walk with you.
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What I do is put the leash around his body up close to his front shoulders.  I Hate pulling on 
a pup's neck.  Then I take him out in the grass and with short pulls encourage him to walk by
calling and coaxing.  Just keep pulling with short pulls, and he'll soon get the idea.  Work 
only about 10 to 15 minutes at a time.  Also give him breathers every few minutes.
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When he's going good with the leash around his body, I then put the leash around his neck. 
I never use a harness while training.  This makes for a wild dog without control. 
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From my friends on the Yorkie list, I have learned that a harness can be useful in certain
situations.  Who says an old dog like me can't learn new tricks? <smile> If you're out in 
public and a large dog without a lead comes after your Yorkie, you can use the lead to 
yank your pup into your arms without strangling him like you would with a neck 
lead. 
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I do recommend having your pup leash trained first before you go to the harness
though. He needs to learn that you take him for a walk and not the other way around.
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Once he's leash trained, then start the "Come" command.  Let's pretend your pups
name is Banjo (hee, hee).  I guess you know I have a Banjo.  You let your pup walk around 
on the leash and then you say "Banjo come" in a strong voice.  You say his name first to 
get his attention, and then give the command you want him to obey.
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When you say the word "come", gently but firmly, pull the leash to you until he is right 
in front of you.  When he is in front of you, lean down and give him lots and lots of praise. 
Let him know what a good boy he is.  Make sure the word come and the leash pulling 
occur at the same time.  Never say more than these two words.  A dog only understands key
words when you talk to them.  While you're training, don't confuse him.
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After you've loved on him a minute or two, let him go play again. Then repeat the 
"Banjo come" command.  I would do this about ten minutes in the morning and ten
in the evening.  You don't want to wear him out.
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In about a week you shouldn't have to pull the leash at all and he will be coming to you on 
his own.  Then start doing it in the house off leash at different times of the day.  If he 
regresses, just put the leash back on a couple of times and he'll get the idea you're serious.
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The next command is "down stay".  Suppose he gets out and runs across the street.  There 
is a lot of traffic and if he sees you he will try to cross the street to come to you and may get 
hurt.  With the "down stay" command you can avoid this disaster.  It's also good if you 
have to take a bath and don't want your little darling jumping in the tub with you.
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Put him down on his belly and say "Banjo down stay".  Keep your hand on his back and 
you can pet or scratch him while doing this and just keep repeating the command "Banjo 
down stay".  (You can do this while sitting on the floor watching TV.)
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After he gets the idea and doesn't try to jump up every 5 seconds, then remove your hand. 
Every time he starts to jump up repeat the command and put him down again.
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When he gets the hang of this in a couple of days, then start going further away from him.
When you can walk away from him to another room and he doesn't follow, you're half way 
there.
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The next step is to take him for a walk on his leash and stop every so often and give him the 
"Banjo down stay" command and if he doesn't do it on his own, put him down when you give
this command. You can renew the "Banjo come" command on the same outing.  In about 
a month or two you will have a nicely trained puppy and you and he will be happier and
"safer" for it.
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Like I said earlier, this is "my" way of raising puppies. I'm sure there are a lot more and 
even some better ideas around.  If you would like to send them to me, and they are good, I 
will post them below.  Till then, good luck with your new puppy.